Worn out, dented by the children’s “Bobby Car” or even accidentally damaged when moving in? Using various examples, we will show you how you can renovate doors and give them a new coat of paint.
When doors are getting old and the coating or veneer is peeling off, the question arises: replace or refurbish? Of course, the decision depends on the degree of damage and your wallet, but some old doors deserve a second chance! We have developed three different renovation options for simple door leaves as well as completely redesigned an old cassette door from the turn of the century. So go ahead: roll up your sleeves and give your doors a second life!
Beautify interior doors: Modern & clear design
A quick and easy renovation is to hide small damage to the door with colored wooden strips.
Modern door leaf design
Step 1: paint the wooden strips
To do this, sand properly wide strips or strips of plywood all around and varnish twice with intermediate sanding.
Step 2: stick on wooden strips
Stick the double-sided adhesive tape on the finished, lacquered wooden strips and attach them to the door.
Whether you put a single stripe, a trio or even a pattern is entirely up to your personal taste.
Like the classic cassette door
Cassette doors are beautiful, noble and unfortunately very expensive to buy. The obvious idea is to simply recreate this type of door with inexpensive means. All you need for this is elegant profiled wood, cut plywood from the hardware store, some acrylic mass and, last but not least, some time. Because that is what it takes, as the door surfaces have to be painted at least three times before the door looks like it can be seen in the picture. Incidentally, we used the “Quick & Easy W 670” fine spray system from Wagner, which allowed us to apply paint evenly.
With profiled strips and cut-to-size plywood panels from the hardware store, you can turn a simple door leaf into an elegant cassette door – and for little money!
Build the cassette door yourself
Step 1: Draw the position of the components
First, mark the location of all components exactly on the door leaf.
Step 2: sanding plywood panels
The plywood panels, which represent the inner area of the cassettes, are rounded off with a wooden file and sandpaper and then cleanly plastered.
Step 3: nail on plywood sheets
Apply a thin film of varnish glue and nail the plywood panels with not too long nails.
Step 4: fill the panel edges
Now fill the panel edges with an acrylic compound from the cartridge and spread it over so that a smooth transition is created.
Step 5: Saw profile wood strips to size
The profiled wood strips are mitered with a fine saw and a cutting box.
Step 6: fix the strips
Just like the panels, the strips are now coated with varnish glue and fixed on the door leaf with nails.
Step 7: fill in the joints
Fill all the joints between the strips and the door leaf with acrylic compound and spread it as with the panels.
A simple disposable glove is recommended for this.
Step 8: sand the protrusions
Once the acrylic material has hardened, sand down any excess with the finest steel wool.
The advantage of steel wool: In contrast to sandpaper, it does not become clogged and you can easily get into the profiles!
Step 9: first primer coat
The raw wood receives a first primer coat.
Step 10: paint the door surface
The door surface is lightly roughened with steel wool, degreased with cleaning fuel and painted.
Step 11: masking off the profiles
Mask the profiles to be highlighted with masking tape.
Step 12: White paint
And paint it white with a round brush.
Step 13: paint the plate
Use a paint roller on the larger areas.
Step 14: remove painter’s tape
Before the paint is completely dry, remove the adhesive tape.
Beautifying interior doors: everything with a high gloss
To paint, unhook the door leaf, remove all fittings and place it on trestles that are padded with blankets, a strip of styrofoam or foam. You don’t need that much space when painting when hung, but you should have a little more experience with brushes and rollers.
Once all the preparatory work has been carried out, such as filling out damage and sanding the surface, the sanding dust is thoroughly removed and the base coat is carried out with a primer. Do not use acrylic paint for the new paint on doors with an old coat of synthetic resin paint!
When painting, the corners and edges are first pre-painted with a brush and then the surfaces are processed with a roller. The work should always be carried out quickly and without interruptions, so that the paint is processed “wet on wet”. For large areas to be painted, we recommend using an alkyd resin paint. It does not form a dry film on the surface as quickly as an acrylic varnish and has better flow properties.
Prepare the high-gloss door
Step 1: apply the finished filler
Larger scratches and dents are repaired with finished filler.
Step 2: sand the door surface
Once the filler is well dry, sand the surface with sandpaper and a sanding block.
Important: only with the block can you be sure that the surface is really flat.
Since the putty will sag when it dries in the event of deeper damage, a second filling process may be necessary.
Step 3: sand the door surface
The door surfaces are now lightly sanded with sandpaper of at least 240 grit and degreased with cleaning petrol.
Step 4: paint the door surface
Only then does the new paint system begin with the paint roller or a flat brush.
Renovating coffered doors: the antique
Anyone who lives in an old building with beautiful coffered doors made of solid wood has certainly made a conscious decision in favor of this type of living. Doors with charm, for the construction of which you still need real craftsmanship. And that’s why you should plan some time for the – admittedly – quite laborious renovation. After all, they are real antiques. In our case, an object from the turn of the century served as an example, which we were able to bring back to a new shine step by step.
Unhook the door and place it on two trestles so that you can work comfortably on the level. This is especially important if you’ve decided to strip all of the old paint off the door. Because then you will surely have to work one working day per door. The layers of paint can best be removed with a hot air gun.
You can also use a chemical paint stripper, but it is difficult to get it out of the filigree profiles. Also make sure to burn off the paint in a well ventilated room!
A small investment with a huge benefit when removing old paint are scrapers on the handle. They can also be used to remove the paint from corners and profiles. Scraper blades are available in different shapes.
A hot air blower should be equipped with temperature control. In this way, the heat can be individually adjusted to the respective color layers (thickness and texture), and the surface does not burn.
Step 1: remove metal parts
First of all, all metal parts such as the handle set, rosettes and lock must be removed. As you can see in the large picture, you work on the old paint with a hot air blower, spatula and various scrapers.
Slowly feel the temperature of the object and the varnish so that the wood underneath does not burn.
The heat makes the old varnish warm and soft, and you can remove it with the scraping tools.
Several work passes may be necessary.
Step 2: remove paint residue
Small and fine residues of the old paint are finally removed with a wire brush and the hot air blower.
Step 3: sand the surface
Since the areas between the cassettes or the profiles are very narrow, only the triangular sander with accessories can be used as an electric sander.
Step 4: sand the surface
Please note, however, that triangular sanders also leave a sanding pattern and it is best to sand them over again in the grain direction with sandpaper.
Step 5: apply repair filler
Defective areas are repaired with repair filler, cracks between profiles and fillings are also filled and …
Step 6: spread the spatula
… passed with your finger.
Step 7: masking the panes
Mask off existing panes with painter’s tape and …
Step 8: apply undercoat
… start with the primer in the order shown in the drawing.
Step 9: sand the surface
Once the primer has dried, all surfaces are lightly sanded, …
Step 10: remove sanding dust
… the sanding dust wiped off or vacuumed, and …
Step 11: first top coat
… the first of two top coats follow.
If renovation measures are no longer useful and a new door is needed, then this is easier than you think. Measure the width of the door leaf. If the dimension is 610, 735, 860, 985, 1100 or 1235 mm, then it is a standard door. If you have a different dimension, you must also replace the door frame!
To do this, measure the clear size of the wall opening and the wall thickness. Using this data, you can now find the appropriate standard door from the table. Example: You measure a width of 760 mm, a height of 2015 mm with a wall thickness of 135 mm. Then you need a door measuring 735 x 1985 with a door frame 135 mm wide.